Cleaning a sex toy takes two minutes: warm water, unscented soap, air drying and a pouch of its own. Everything else on this page is detail about materials, because the one mistake that ruins a toy is usually made with the wrong cleaner, not with too little of it.
The routine below works for most toys. After it comes a table by material, a short list of things never to do, and a word on storage, which quietly shortens the life of more toys than any cleaning mistake.
After every use: four steps
- Rinse right away. Warm running water, before the lube dries. Fresh lube washes off in seconds, dried lube turns into a sticky film.
- Wash with soap. Plain soap without scent or dye, worked into every seam, ridge and button edge, then rinsed off completely.
- Dry in the air. Pat with a clean towel and leave it on the towel until it is fully dry. A toy put away damp is how mould and smells start.
- Store it apart. Its own fabric pouch, out of the sun and away from the radiator.
That is the whole routine. Most toy care questions come down to one of these four steps being skipped, usually the drying.
What to wash each material with
Materials differ in how porous they are and how they react to heat. Nonporous silicone, glass and steel forgive a lot. Porous materials such as TPE and jelly hold on to lube, soap and bacteria more readily, so they need gentler cleaning and more careful drying, and it is worth replacing them sooner.
| Material | Wash with | Boiling | Keep away from |
|---|---|---|---|
| Solid silicone, no motor | Warm water and unscented soap | Yes, if the maker allows | Alcohol, silicone lube |
| Glass, stainless steel | Warm water and soap | Yes, if the maker allows | Sudden hot and cold on glass |
| TPE, TPR, jelly | Warm water and mild soap, gently | No | Heat, alcohol, long soaking |
| Hard plastic (ABS) | Warm water and soap | No | Harsh household cleaners |
| Anything with a motor | Damp cloth and soap, per the water rating | Never | Submerging a splashproof toy |
Toys with a motor are their own case. A waterproof toy, usually marked with a rating such as IPX7, can be washed under the tap like any other. A splashproof one gets a damp soapy cloth and a wipe with a clean damp cloth, and the charging port stays dry. If the manual says nothing about water, treat the toy as splashproof.
What never to do
- Alcohol on silicone. It dries the surface out, and with regular use it turns rough and can crack.
- Boiling anything with electronics. Motor, battery, charging port: all of it is ruined by heat, and the seals give way first.
- Household cleaners and bleach. Too harsh for materials that touch sensitive skin, and residue is hard to rinse off completely.
- The dishwasher, unless the maker says in writing that it is fine. The detergent is aggressive and the heat is uneven.
- Silicone lube on a silicone toy. This one is not about cleaning, but it causes more ruined toys than all the others. The details are on the lube and toys page.
When boiling makes sense
Boiling is for solid silicone with nothing inside it, glass and stainless steel, and only when the maker allows it. A few minutes in boiling water is enough. It is a deep clean for sharing a toy between partners or after a toy has been stored for a long time, not something to do after every use. Glass needs care with sudden temperature changes: put it in cold water and heat it together, rather than dropping a cold toy into a boiling pot.
Drying and storage
Toys touching each other in a drawer is the problem nobody notices until it is too late. Soft materials pressed together for weeks can soften, turn sticky and pick up colour from each other, silicone and TPE especially. One pouch per toy solves it, and the cotton or linen pouch that often comes in the box is exactly what it is for.
Keep toys out of direct sunlight and away from heat. For a toy that will sit unused for a while, take the batteries out, and top up rechargeable ones every couple of months so the battery does not drain completely. A toy that has been in the drawer for a long time gets a wash before it is used, even if it was clean when it went in.
Labels and cleaners in the US
Lube and toys are regulated differently. Personal lubricants are handled by the FDA as medical devices, while most toys sold in the US never go through FDA clearance, so the material on the box is the maker's own word. “Body-safe” is not a regulated term. A clear material name such as silicone, glass or stainless steel says far more than any adjective next to it.
Toy cleaner sprays usually cost about $8 to $15 at drugstores and big online marketplaces. They are handy on a trip, but at home unscented soap and warm water do the same job. If the toy and the lube are still a question for you, start with how to choose a lube; every guide in this series is collected on the guides for couples page.
And if you would rather play than clean right now, the couples games catalog opens in the browser, no install and no sign-up needed.
Frequently asked questions
Can I clean a silicone toy with alcohol?
Better not. Alcohol dries silicone out: wiped down with it regularly, the surface loses its smoothness, turns rough and can crack over time. Warm water and unscented soap are all silicone needs.
Which toys can be boiled?
Only solid silicone toys with no motor, battery or electronics inside, plus glass and stainless steel, and only if the maker allows it. Anything that vibrates or charges must never be boiled.
How often should I wash a toy?
After every use, and again before the next one if it has been sitting in a drawer for a while. Dried lube turns sticky and collects dust, so washing straight away is easier.
Why should toys be stored apart?
Soft materials can soften and turn sticky after long contact with each other, silicone and TPE especially. A separate pouch for each toy solves this completely.
Do I need a special toy cleaner?
Not really. A spray is handy when travelling, but at home unscented soap and warm water do the job just as well. In the US these sprays usually cost about $8 to $15 at drugstores and online.